Off The Map Side-Stories #3: You Can’t Go Home Again

Off The Map Side-Stories #3: You Can’t Go Home Again

As Christmas approaches....

I'm riding a bus back from LAX airport and waxing melancholy.  Tonight is likely the last for Lora's greyhound Chuck.  He had a happy life, but one month ago Lora found a large cancerous mass on his liver and spleen.  Three days ago he was sprinting around like a maniac, as greyhounds do, but something must have ruptured for good.  Soon he will finally rest.  I'm meeting Lora at a doctor's house, where Chuck will spend his last moments surrounded by loved ones.  Yesterday, I visited my Grandma at the nursing home.... she turns 102 tomorrow, but she sleeps almost all the time now.  She will pass soon, surrounded by loved ones.  In this article that I wrote on the airplane from New York, I talk about saying goodbye to a favorite outdoor location from my youth that I will never be able to experience in the same way again.  It's a time of transition, and in those times, it's good to remember what you gained from knowing the things that leave you.  They don't leave you empty.... they leave you a changed person... changed for the better, one hopes.

IMG_2680.jpg

Off The Map Side-Stories #3: You Can’t Go Home Again

During a break in the rain, I wandered into the forests surrounding my old neighborhood in upstate New York.  The region had failed to create a white Christmas for its returning native sons and daughters, though it had tried to be resourceful.  The forest floor had carefully collected and preserved the scant wisps of snow that had fallen on a previous evening, cradling them within the curled ridges of oak, maple and beech leaves.  But unseasonable warmth had returned to the state, and even those small vestiges of wintry ambiance melted away.

Brown hues dominated the landscape, offset by the gentle greens of hemlock branches and the bright emerald shade of the lichen that coated several slabs of slate rock.  The slate outcroppings had always attracted me in my teenage years.  A circle of short cliffs ringed the highest hilltop, and a crisscrossing network of cracks made the leading edge of the cliffs vulnerable to fracturing and toppling over.  My friends and I called the most dramatic section Split Rocks, and the overhangs at the base of these cliffs formed small caves that sparked our imaginations.

Occasionally other elements sparked within these caves, such as the candles that tipped over during my brother’s occupation and caught the neighboring trees on fire.  He and his friends tried to urinate the fire into submission without success, and fire crews had to hike in with backpacks full of flame retardant to prevent a larger conflagration.  My brother and I built some fortresses from fallen trees during our younger years, but mostly I preferred to wander alone, mapping the extent of the slate formations with pencil and paper.  Days such as this one, when the leaves of the deciduous trees were bare and visibility across the forest was greatest, were always the best for mapmaking. 

The rainfall picked up again, and I took shelter beneath the hemlock stands.  Wildlife remained distant today.  Only chickadees chirped secretively to each other about the human in their midst.  The forest was no longer as quiet as I remembered, as the low rumble of combustion engines never faded into the background.  True wilderness could not be found in Upstate New York, sadly.  European colonists had laced the rolling landscape with roads, expanding pathways through every valley.  Even hilltops had been cleared, though on the highest hills the farming and grazing was marginal, so many forests had a chance to reestablish themselves.  When seeking solace and adventure as a teenager, I didn’t descend into the valleys; I climbed to the places that had been forgotten, where the relics left by previous settlers lay rusting amid the moss and blackberry brambles.

Despite knowing what I would find, I returned this morning to the foot of the Split Rocks and gazed grimly upwards at the mansion that now perched atop the most important hill of my childhood.  During my college years, developers bulldozed a wide swath along the crest of the hill right up to the edge of the slate cliffs.  Whenever I visited home, I would patrol the forest and rip down surveying ribbons, but my efforts did not keep the developers at bay for long, if at all.  Now there is a castle atop the hill, and I must prowl like a thief in a forest where I once ruled, scavenging for memories. 

Sadly, everyone wants their castle on a hill.  I know I do.  I actually grew up in a development not far away from here, and when that housing tract was built, undoubtedly it was loathed by some farmboy because it obliterated his favorite wooded playground.  It’s a tragic cycle.  Slowly, all the wide, open spaces get carved into pieces, and there becomes no way to escape the humming of combustion engines.  We build houses within the hilltop forests and destroy a little more of the places we love.  Until our species finds a way to stabilize its population, this outcome is virtually inevitable.

And yet, our destructive natures are balanced by the individuals and organizations that have advocated for setting aside public lands so that backyard spaces and wilderness areas will continue to exist.  Within my home county lie state forests.  I can drive a few hours to the northeast and southeast and reach the vast Catskill and Adirondack State Parks.  And of course, these open landscapes dwindle in comparison to the network of National Parks, Forests and Wildlife Refuges found throughout the American West. 

Public lands often find themselves under threat from irresponsible ranching, mining, logging, recreation and energy extraction interests, but they still represent hope… hope that humans are truly learning to curb their powerful appetites and will one day be able to balance their presence on Earth with the rest of God’s creatures.  Our stewardship of the planet is a vast experiment, with successes and setbacks.  I am optimistic that we can learn from our mistakes, and thrive, as a nation and as a community of species.  But today, I must mourn for the loss of my own forest.

I can no longer return to the hilltop above Split Rocks, except as an intruder.  At least I have my old maps to remind me of how things used to be, and the satisfaction of having explored every rock while I had the chance.  Now the chickadees will have to visit these places on my behalf.  The deer and raccoons can patrol the perimeter, and perhaps someday the descendants of these animals will reclaim the land, once humans find it in themselves to ease their grip and give some of the forests back.

Off The Map Side-Stories #2: Cache Flow Issues

Lee and I slid down the concrete wall into the channelized stream and turned to examine the tunnel.  It was tall and circular, so we wouldn’t need to hunch over like dwarves, at least.  A trickle of water slid lazily into the tube and disappeared into darkness.  Lee checked his smartphone one more time.  His geocaching app told us that the prize lay somewhere within this tunnel, underneath several roads and all four lanes of Highway 101.  The search was on.  I wish I’d brought a flashlight.

Geocaching is a new international sport that emerged in the era of global satellite positioning.  People began hiding containers in unlikely locations, posting the coordinates online to provide a sort of treasure hunt for weekend adventurers.  Whenever a container is located, the finder simply signs their name in the logbook and takes or leaves a trinket – some little coin, button or toy small enough to fit in the receptacle. 

This was my first introduction to the sport.  I walked carefully through the tunnel, using the indirect light of Lee’s smartphone to help me avoid the water pooling at the lowest points.  After a quarter mile, we still hadn’t discovered the cache.  The light at the opposite end of the tunnel illuminated the only dangerous section – a stretch of metal culvert that had partially rusted through, perhaps due to the pool of water three feet wide that had formed along the floor.  We had to straddle the pool with our legs stretched to their widest limit and waddle forward a few inches at a time in order to keep our boots dry.  I felt lucky that my thighs didn’t cramp.  If they had, I would have awkwardly tumbled sideways into a stagnant puddle… embarrassing for any adventurer.

We emerged at an intersection with an urban stream, full of refuse and the usual debris blown in from local streets and businesses.  On the other side of a second tunnel, the creek became channelized again, with eight-foot high embankments that were too slick to scale.  I wanted to get a look at the surrounding neighborhood, but to escape the creek I had to tap into some skateboarding moves.  I ran a step up one tapering wall, then back down and across to the opposite wall, running up that side and down again.  By banking from one side to the other, I built up momentum, increasing my height each time until I finally could latch my fingers onto the dirt above the wall and claw my way up.

That was fun.  But a neighbor with a barking dog warned us that a nearby property manager would call the cops on us.  We returned to the tunnel, and on our way back, I got lucky and discovered a camouflaged metal tin tucked into an alcove.  We signed the logbook and continued on. 

Other sites we visited that morning led us to funky and intriguing parts of town… places we would not otherwise have known existed.  I found one storm drain tunnel that I desperately wanted to squeeze into and explore, but that expedition will have to wait for another day.  For a person who normally likes to get away from the urban environment as much as possible, this was a great reminder that adventures can be found almost everywhere you look… and the geocaching smartphone tool can really get you looking in the right direction.

 

For more information on geocaching and to see more pictures, check back at www.facebook.com/offthemapbooks later in the week.

Off The Map Side-Stories #1: Double-Dipping

I aim to keep writing throughout the year... stories that I can dash off without too much editing... stories of adventure between the summer seasons. If you can think of a catchy title for this series, let me know! Here's the first:

Off The Map Side-Stories #1: Double-Dipping

Dolphins followed us to Santa Barbara Island, and dolphins followed us home, two days later.  In between, we paid for our ferry passage by getting our hands dirty, planting native seedlings to help restore a landscape devastated by a century of overgrazing by sheep, goats and rabbits.  It’s an economical way to see the island, and a satisfying experience to be part of the recovery process.

Santa Barbara is the smallest of the eight Channel Islands of the coast of Southern California.  The rainwater that soaks into the ground there isn’t sufficient to make streams or springs flow, so human habitation has never been a productive enterprise.  The National Park Service runs a campground, but you must bring all your own food and water supplies and hike them up a steep trail from the docks to the upper plateau.  Kitty and I were among the dozen volunteers contributing our time, planting coreopsis, silverleaf and cactus and feeding them precious water to tide them over until the rainy season.

On the second afternoon, we used our lunch break to hike down to the docks and investigate the potential for a midday swim.  Unfortunately, the waves at high tide were crashing violently against the rocks and wooden beams; we climbed down the metal ladder until we were waist-deep in the water, but we didn’t dare let go.  Around us, sea lions traced the shoreline and effortlessly spun their sleek bodies through the heavy surf.  We feared a rogue wave would smash us against the cliffs if we swam away and tried to return.  So instead, we played a vertical game of tag with the ocean, stepping to the lowest rung we had the nerve to reach, then clawing our way back up the ladder whenever a set of waves threatened to catch us and sweep us away.

Somehow, I kept my head dry until the final round of our game.  In truth, I thought the game was over, but as we were starting to climb to safety, one last wave ricocheted off the cliff beneath the dock and completely drenched me.  Sneaky ocean.  I needed to remember; the island may have appreciated our temporary presence, but the ocean owed us no favors.

Release Party Decompression

What an amazing night last night!  We had a packed gallery for Melanie Hutton's 11-person band, and I got to have a featured role on one of the songs... got to do my tinwhistle percussive flourishes, which I love.  I also served as the opening act for the concert, so to speak.... reading chapters from my book, sharing tangential stories and taking questions from the audience.  Many thanks for your participation and your laughter!  Also glad to have met many new people through the night.  It was a very smooth experience for me, and I'm greatly looking forward to (instead of dreading) future signings and readings!  I hope to share some portions of the night with you later in the week.  Until then, here's a picture from the considerate Boz Nobel:

 

RELEASE DAY!!!

A long last, my follow-up book, "Further Off The Map: Fifty-Three Tales of Adventure Along the Rougher Edges of American Wilderness" is finally available in paperback or Kindle editions on Amazon.com!  

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B017FC8MGO
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1514763389

To celebrate, I am throwing a release party tonight in Santa Barbara in collaboration with my friend Melanie Hutton, who is releasing her own CD of middle eastern/world music.  There will be stories and songs, with an 8-piece band!  And yes, I'll be playing my tinwhistle on a track or two.  Visit www.facebook.com/events/146904685661768/ to learn more about the event... perhaps to hear how it went!

I am immensely proud of the book.  The editing process was exhaustive, with several friends helping along the way.  These stories should give you many nights of entertainment, safe on your couch, in your bed or by your fireside.  And for the family members who might get freaked out at the cliffs, animals and violent weather, just remember.... I survived.  :)

Now, to congratulate you for getting to the end of this blog post, from November 12th-16th, my first book "Off The Map" is available to you on Kindle for FREE!  Find it here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DAJR8U8

Enjoy the new adventures!

-- Bryan

 

Beginnings

Welcome to the new site, everyone!

This website has been in the works, at least in my mind, for a good while.  I wanted a convenient way for people to find me, and my writings, in a form that's less clunky than good ol' Facebook... although that page will continue to play host to fresh photographs in the years ahead.  Here, people can access...

GALLERY - A cascade of some of my best images over the years, for when you need visual inspiration

ABOUT - Where I can tell the story of how I came to be a reckless adventurer, and how I've survived.

JOURNAL - Where I can keep a bona fide blog... a home for summer articles and shorter pieces during the colder seasons.  Here I can also respond to questions from my readers and give advice about cross-country travel on a minuscule budget.

I hope you'll find something entertaining or illuminating within these digital pages in the months ahead.  Should you feel inspired, head over to the CONTACT section and let me know what you think!

Safe journeys,

-- Bryan